Dry extracts: usage in beauty industry

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13.09.2013 07:36

Dry extracts are widely used by major cosmetic industries for herbal procedures in spas and health camps, during the manufacture of cosmetics and soaps at home.
Biologically active substances of natural plants are better alternative to synthetic chemicals because they evolutionarily close to human body, hardly to cause side effects and easily involve in metabolic processes. At the same time, we are deeply convinced that the value of the healing properties of medicinal plants is solely in synergy effect from the impact of the whole complex of active substances of plants.
Depending on the basic active substances, plant extracts may be used as:

natural coloring materials, which add the original color notes to the cosmetic product. So, nettle extract colors cosmetic product in a dark green color, and melilot extract adds sweet honey tone;

active natural admixtures, enriching cosmetic preparations with extra useful properties:

  • antibacterial (chamomile, calendula, John's wort, willow, bergenia);
  • venotonic (willow bark, leuzea, melilot);
  • vitaminizing (hips, nettle);
  • immunostimulatory (rhodiola rosea, leuzea, nettle);
  • lipolytic (horsetail);
  • analgesic (St. John's wort, chamomile);
  • bleaching (Bergenia, licorice);
  • anti-allergic (nettle, bur marigold, chamomile);
  • tonic (St. John's wort, melilot);
  • moisturizing, anti-fading (chamomile, currants, Rhodiola rosea);
  • sedative (peony, St. John's wort, bur marigold, lemon balm), etc.

Product recommendations

  • Dry extracts should be taken from the package with a clean and dry instrument to prevent moisture ingress. The package should be immediately closed.
  • Dry water-soluble extracts should  be added to water phase in powder form or after  diluting an extract in water, hydrolate or glycerol.
  • In order to preserve useful properties try to add extracts at the end of cream and soap boiling when the mass temperature does not exceed 50 ºС. Thus, when making soap, a diluted extract should be added after maintenance oils.
  • Avoid  reaction of the extract with alkali. For example, when making soap, you should not prepare an alkaline solution based on the extract. Instead, you should dilute a supersaturated alkaline solution with 50% of the estimated liquid amount, the rest of the liquid should be added as an extract solution.
  • Application rate:

for soap - in dry powder in the ratio of 0.2-2.25 of soap bar weight;

for creams and other  cosmetic preparations – from 1 to 5% depending on the raw material and the active material amount;

for herbal baths – from 20 gr for a 200-300-liter bathtub.

  • It is not recommended to mix more than 3-4 extracts, though there is another alternative view point according to which a greater amount of different herbal raw materials can be mixed up: "the body will take what it needs".
  • Pay special attention to contraindications (they occur, though extremely rare).
  • The extract should be kept in a closed container, in a dry place, away from direct sunlight and moisture.
  • Dry extract balling is acceptable in the event it does not affect the extract useful properties.


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